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We have a beautiful casita (Casa Chica) in La Alpujarra , the foothills of the Sierra Nevada between the Mountains and the Mediterranean, 60 minutes drive from Granada and 40 minutes drive from the Sea.
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Surrounding Area
In these stunning foothills are many little pueblos blancos (typical old Moorish white villages) and ours is called Bayacas, which is a ten minute (hair pin bend) drive, or a 25 minute walk along the river valley to Orgiva, a bustling market town
Orgiva
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(You may have heard of Cortijo Romero the personal development centre near there.)
Bayacas has the oldest church in La Alpujarra, and the area surrounding is rustic fertile agricultural land, full of lemon, orange, avocado, almonds, vines and olives. The Rio Chico runs through the village from the snow capped high sierras. You may have read about the area in Chris Stewarts “Driving Over Lemons”
The area is irrigated from the old Moorish system of acequeas. The road climbs steeply beyond Bayacas to the high sierras and pretty soon the scenery changes to alpine species such as chestnut and firs.
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There are some spectacular walks in the area , some starting beyond Capileira that go to Mulhacen, (3,478 m)the highest mountain of the Sierra Nevada, and then through the famous Poqueira Gorge which takes in the three towns of Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira. Walking from Bayacas through the ruined village up to Carataunas and beyond to Soportujar is a rewarding hike especially as there is an excellent restaurant at the top!. Also there is a lovely walk along the ridge of the Cerro Negro . The Mediterranean is visible from the roof terrace in the distance and it is a 40 minute drive to the beach., through a spectacular gorge.
The roof terrace overlooking fields, mountains, sea and village church
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Sierra Lujar taken from the Balcony
Between the snow-capped mountains of the high sierras and the Med (approximately 50 kilometres as the crow flies) are four microclimates ranging between temperate, alpine, Mediterranean and tropical. The adjacent coast is in fact called the Costa Tropical and between La Alpujarra and the sea there are bananas and other tropical fruits grown. It is cooler than the coast, because it is over 700 metres above sea level, but warm enough during the winter months of the year to sunbathe and eat out. There can be an odd exceptionally cold week but you can’t predict when between January and March it might be.
Bayacas Church from the Roof Terrace
The house is completely renovated to a really high standard and is beautifully tiled with alcoves and arches in the traditional Spanish style. There are two bedrooms, (a double and a twin which can be made into a double) both with ensuite showers, and a 3rd additional bathroom. There is also extra sleeping potential in the sitting and dining room in the form of a sofa bed and built in seats that have mattresses on, so in effect this means that it can sleep 4 comfortably (or 9 chaotically as we envisaged for our grandchildren) We don't want to let it to more than 6 people at a time.
Not only does the wood burning stove keep you toasty on chilly days, but there is also central heating. In the beautifully tiled kitchen there is an electric oven with gas hob, a large fridge with freezer compartment, and a dishwasher
Main bedroom 1 (looking out to Sierra Lujar)
Main bedroom 2 with beamed ceiling
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We bought this house in May 2004 when it was in a dilapidated state, with the intention of slapping some paint on, tiling the floor and sticking in a sink. 3 years later, having rebuilt all the walls, renovated all the beams, and spent a fortune on it, we now seem to have done a 'Holycombe' on it
The Bathroom
The en-suite shower 1
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The en-suite shower 2
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Downstairs Bedroom
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The downstairs bedroom has twin beds, that can be made into a double. It is very pretty and is outside and down steep steps, underneath the sitting room. Possibly because of this it may not be suitable for the very old or very young or very drunk.
The downstairs en-suite shower
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Sitting room in daylight
The sitting room opens out to a terrace shaded by an ancient vine that is perfect for eating lunch under on a hot day, and beyond that are two ruins we have yet to reclame. We put the gates up in the garden as a health and safety measure to prevent accidents happening in the ruins.
As you can see, this is a great place to take breakfast, and when the sun goes off the balcony at around 2 pm then it is a nice shady area to relax. The balcony faces south looking towards the Sierra Llujar and Sierra la Contraviesa
Dining room with seat/beds 2
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A vine-covered terrace by the front door.
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The whole area is private
Bayacas does not have a bar or a shop or a school. It comprises tiny narrow streets that not even a smart car would get along, and is mostly populated by locals who speak a sort of pigeon Spanish. (They don’t recognize our Michel Thomas Spanish).
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When we first bought our house there were animal houses in the street beside and beneath people’s houses. Apart from locals, who are friendly there are other European people of mostly alternative nature who are building their own houses or renovating like us. (There isn’t a sign of the Costa Del Sol architecture or temperament.) There is a bar/restaurant in the next village up the hill Carataunas, which is walkable (1/4 hour)through the deserted village, or further up the mountains in the numerous pueblos, or in Orgiva a ten minute drive along hairpin bends or 20 min walk along the valley.
It is not long ago that there were only mule tracks around here, as written about in “South from Granada” by Gerald Brennan, a contemporary and friend of Virginia Wolf, who lived in Yegen, a village further east. Mules are still to be seen in the village, along with the goat herd with its tinkling bells. In fact, they are very important, because they brought the building materials up to our house.
There is a riding stable in the village, and towards Orgiva, there is a yoga dome and T’ai Chi temple which one can go to on a drop- in basis - check out www.yogaunderthesky.com There is also circle dancing nearby, see www.junewatts.com june2@junewatts.com>
The yoga dome in the Temple Garden on the track up the river valley between Orgiva and Bayacas
The beautiful city of Granada is 50 minutes away, through the Lecrin Valley via the spa town of Lanjaron. The Moorish Alhambra Palace with the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada, is a sight to see.
La Alhambra Palace
Here there are souk-like cobbled streets leading up to the old part of the city the Albaicin, and beyond to the gipsy caves of Sacromonte, where you can see genuine flamenco. A further 45 minutes drive is the Sierra Nevada Ski resort
The nearest coastal town is Motril, an commercial town and port, and beyond by just a couple of kilometres is Salobrena with its impressive old castle built on the hill.
The nearest acceptable beach with chiringuitos (little shacks selling delicious sea-food) is Salobrena - Playa Guardia which leads to La Caleta an ancient hamlet - here is a sandy beach and stone beach in front of sugar cane fields
(Motril has playa Granada which is characterless but fine for sandpies and parking). – Nerja towards Malaga is a nice resort or La Herradura near Almunecar. Castell de Ferro towards Almeria is OK There are a couple of lovely beaches if you can find them. One is called Playa de Canuela 11km east of Nerja. Maro playa near Nerja, ( a 70 minute drive) past the yoga centre and through plastic green houses is another,
and Cantarillon near the Cerro Gordo tunnel. The nicest beach is beyond Calahonda called Rijana 12 miles east of Motril– you go under the road. If you drive East towards Almeria you are in for a ghastly experience – there are hectares and hectares of green plastic greenhouses, that are both unhealthy for the workers and an eyesore
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Granada – 50 minutes away
Malaga – 2 hours away. Ask us about car hire, airports
To travel by train - ask Sally to email you
Up to 29th Feb 2012 £350 (except for half term £450)
March £400
1st April-30th Sept £450
1st Oct-23 Dec £400 (except for half term £450)
23rd Dec - 6th Jan £450
7th Jan - end of Feb 2013
March £400
Extra days: pro rata
See Availability calendar
For Further information contact Sally Birtwell on 01608 684239
or Andy on 07771 983738 or Sally on sally@holycombe.com